Course into Vaping!
Summary
This guide is intended to illustrate, as effectively as possible, the most important information about personal vaporizers. It will cover important terms within the industry, as well as key terms used to describe a personal vaporizer and all of its inner workings. There will be a few types of personal vaporizers made example of, but strictly for the purpose of illustrating their differences in design, not as a review of preference. This guide will also cover thread types, expected costs, safety information, social behavior, and advanced user information. This has undergone many revisions and will be updated as often as possible to maintain accurate and thorough information.
Key Terminology
There are a few things to cover before you venture off. Some key terminology to gather in, and some important names and models in the industry. For instance, “electronic cigarette” or “e-cig” is not the commonly accepted name. The general term that encompasses these devices is “personal vaporizer” or “PV”. These are the main reasons (to my understanding):
- An "electronic cigarette" is a type of PV that simulates the size and look of an analog cigarette.
- "E-Cigs" have the association of major companies such as Blu, Volcano, Smoke Assassin, Bauway, and Janty (to name a few). Some of these companies also offer "e-pipes", "e-cigars", and "passthrus".
- Not all vapers use juice with nicotine. The term "e-cig" illustrates a product with nicotine.
- The so-called "homemade" PVs are made by people and/or small businesses. These are generally referred to as "mods" as they are modifications of equipment and/or modifications of the methodology used for vaporizing to improve performance and/or convenience. Mods are typically produced on a smaller scale. In many cases, they are ordered, the order is processed, and then they are made and shipped. The common "mod" categories thus far are "pipe mods" (id est the Jazz Cartopipe or the Protopype), "tube mods" (id est the Silver Bullet or the Icon), "box mods" (id est the VMU or the Ali'i), and "passthrus" (also called passthroughs or PTs). The eGo/Riva/kGo is the only sort of ambiguous PV on the market that seems to have its own classification. It's kind of a cigar-style device that has (in a few cases) been turned into a "mod". Perhaps it's a "cigar mod"?
Alright, that’s a bit much to take in, but I’ll expand on some of this information as we go along. Here are some key terms to remember:
PV and PV Component Terminology
- Mod: As described above, a mod is a term used to describe modified equipment and/or modifications of the methodology used for vaping to improve performance and/or convenience. This term also applies to some other parts such as a “tank mod”, which is a homemade tank. (See Tank below.)
- PV: Personal Vaporizer (abbreviated as “PV” and pluralized as “PVs”). This is a device that vaporizes a liquid solution for the purpose of inhaling the vapor.
- Atomizer: The atomizer (also referred to as an “atty”, “atties”, or “attys” [the latter two being plural]) is a component of a PV. This part of the PV contains the coil (see Coil below) that vaporizes the liquid into vapor. It connects in between a battery connection and a cartridge or a drip tip. (See Drip Tip below)
- Cartridge: The cartridge (also referred to as a “cart” or plural “carts”) is a component of a PV. This part holds the liquid and allows the vaper to draw air and vapor through. It connects to the atomizer. (See Liquid below)
- Coil: The coil refers to the actual wire inside of the atomizer or cartomizer that vaporizes the liquid.
- Wick: The wick refers to a polyester thread in atomizers and CE2s that becomes saturated in the liquid, allowing the liquid to be moved directly toward the coil. (See Cartomizer below)
- Cartomizer: The cartomizer (also referred to as a “carto” or plural “cartos”) is a component of a PV. This part of the PV contains both the atomizer and the cartridge in one component. This part connects to a battery connection. There are two basic types of cartomizers. There is the standard cartomizer which contains filler and there is the CE2 (cartomizer edition 2) which contains a reservoir instead of filler. There are also two common CE2 mods that are known as Clearomizers and Flüxomizers. Both replace the outer steel tube of the CE2 with a transparent plastic tube, but utilize the same internal design.
- Battery: The battery (also referred to as “batt” or plural “batts”) is a component of a PV. This part stores energy and releases the energy when the battery is activated, albeit manually or automatically. These include, but are not limited to, proprietary batteries (such as an e-cig battery or eGo battery), Lithium ion discrete batteries (also called “Li-ion” batteries or “Li-ions”), and Lithium Iron Phosphate discrete batteries (most commonly referred to as “LiFePO” batteries). All of these batteries require respect to keep without danger.
- Filler: The filler (also referred to as “fill” or “batting”) is the polyester and/or cotton that is inside of a cartridge and standard cartomizers. Filler is used to suspend the liquid in place, while allowing the liquid to be pulled toward the coil via suction.
- Tank: A tank is a reservoir that holds juice, as opposed to filler.
- Drip Tip: The drip tip is a component of a PV. This part is used to make a simple airflow pathway from the end of an atomizer, cartomizer, or some tanks (generally tank mods). (See Dripping below)
- Passthru: A passthru (also referred to as a “PT” or “passthrough”) is a PV that draws its energy from a USB cable. Ideal PTs are those that do not include a battery. Having no battery to worry about overheating, PTs are recommended especially for one's vehicle, as they can be plugged into an adapter that then plugs into the cigarette lighter port. Generally, a passthru is recommended also for one's desk or home office.
- Thread Type: The thread type (also referred to as “threads” or “thread style”) refers to the connection with the screw-like male and female bits. These pertain exclusively to the connection between the battery connection and the atomizer connection.
- RBA: Re-buildable atty (or sometimes in reference to a carto)
Electronics Terminology
- Volts: Volts (abbreviated as “v” and sometimes “voltage” is used as a like term) refers to the measured unit of electric potential at a point. This can also be described as how much electricity can flow (and more likely is flowing) at a particular location, such as at the end of a circuit.
- Ohms: Ohms (abbreviated as “Ω” and frequently referred to as “resistance”) refers to the measured unit of electrical resistance.
- Watts: Watts (abbreviated as “w” and sometimes “wattage” is used as a like term) refers to the resulting measured unit of power when one ampere flows through one volt of energy.
- Amperes: Amperes (abbreviated as "a" and “amps”, and sometimes “amperage” is used as a like term) refers to the measured unit of energy that passes through a point at a one time.
- mAh: Used to describe the 'capacity' of a battery, mAh refers to milliampere-hours or milliamp-hours, which is the electric charge transferred by a steady current of one milliampere (0.001amp) for one hour.
- Low-Resistance: Low-resistance (also referred to as “LR” or “low-res”) has to do with the resistance (ohms) of an atomizer and a cartomizer. LR parts should not be used with high-voltage PVs.
- High-Voltage: High-Voltage (also referred to as “HV” or “high-res”) can refer to an atomizer or cartomizer with high resistance (ohms). HV can also refer to a PV that uses five volts or more from its energy source. New vapers should be cautious about using an HV PV, as they can bring a greater risk of battery problems and burning sensations from excessively dry vapor (which can come from not having enough juice in the filler or tank).
- Variable Voltage: Variable Voltage (also referred to as "VV") is a sort of sub-category of PVs. These PVs have what's called a potentiometer installed so that the user can change the voltage to what they want. Not all VV PVs can go the same ranges, so be sure to consult your merchant before you make your purchase to ensure you are buying exactly what you want.
- Switch: The switch (most commonly referred to as the "button") is what completes the circuit and allows energy to travel from the battery to the atomizer. This also includes Master Switches which are installed on some PVs. A master switch will allow/disallow the main button to work depending on whether it is on/off, respectively. There are two types of switches that are used in PVs today; those being, electronic switches and mechanical switches. Mechanical switches generally activate the power source by a simple connection of a piece of metal physically touching another piece of metal to complete the circuit. An example of a PV with a mechanical switch would be the button on the Prodigy V3.1. Electronic switches (also known as MOSFET analog switches) employ semi-conductors to transfer from OFF to ON. An example of an electronic switch would be the switches on the VMU (including the main button).
- Protected: Protected is a term used to describe a battery that has pre-installed safety mechanisms. These usually include electronics to set maximum charged voltage, maximum discharge rate of the battery, and the minimum voltage level that the battery can fall to as well as gas vents. More will be explained about this later, but all purchased non-proprietary batteries should be protected.
Other Terminology
- Liquid: The liquid (also referred to as “juice”, “e-liquid”, or “e-juice”) is the compound solution that is vaporized. The juice is generally comprised of a base dilutant of propylene glycol and/or vegetable glycerin, liquid nicotine, and flavoring(s). Liquid nicotine is not always included, and one should be sure they are ordering the nicotine dosage they are looking for (such as 0mg/ml or 25mg/ml.) The term “mg/ml” means that for every one milliliter of the solution, there is X milligrams of nicotine.
- PG: Propylene Glycol is a safe solution used in PVs as a dilutant for nicotine. It's extremely rare, but some folks do have an allergy to propylene glycol. If you notice adverse effects such as rash or difficultly breathing, immediately stop usage and seek medical help. PG tends to give a stronger throat hit, but produce fewer clouds. PG should always be food-grade/pharmaceutical-grade.
- VG: Vegetable Glycerin (sometimes just "Glycerin") is a safe solution used in PVs as a dilutant for nicotine. Typically, VG tends to give a softer (or less) throat hit, but produce much greater clouds. VG should always be food-grade/pharmaceutical-grade. VG is the general alternative for those who may be allergic to PG as VG appears to be non-allergenic.
- Throat Hit: The strong sensation of pressure in the lungs and throat that simulate the sensation of smoking.
- Clouds: Clouds refer to the visual, white vapor.
- Vape: (also “vaping” and “vapes”) To inhale vapor. Vape can also be used in the idiom “daily vape” which is to illustrate the juice or particular flavor that a vaper prefers to use on an average basis.
- Vaper: One who vapes. Can also be referred to as a “PV user”.
- Merchant: A person/company that sells PV-related products. These include Juice Merchants (which focus on selling and/or making juices), General Merchants (which focus on selling basic components and supplies), and Specialty Merchants (which focus on making/selling their own signature PVs or PV components).
- Manufacturer: A company that manufactures PV components, and sells them to some merchants. Most manufacturers are currently based in China.
- Dripping: When one drips juice directly onto an atomizer to vape, as opposed to using a cartridge for juice delivery. Drip tips were initially designed for this purpose, but have become popular for just about any serious vaper.
- Single/Stacked/Parallel: These terms refer to how the battery or batteries are setup in the PV. A single battery setup is pretty self-explanatory. A stacked battery setup illustrates two batteries that are vertically positioned with one battery on top of the other. A parallel battery setup illustrates two batteries that are vertically (or rarely horizontally) positioned side by side. In terms of safety, a single battery setup is the safest. A parallel battery setup is safer though than a stacked battery setup.
Model Types
Here are some of the more common models/thread types:
- The 510 is just about the most common model and thread type there is on the market.
- The 801 and KR808D-1 model and thread type are very common, but are not compatible with each other.
- The 306 is a common and upcoming model and thread type that is compatible with the 510 thread type, but not the drip tips that are designed for the 510. The 306 atomizers have their own drip tip design.
- The 901 is slightly less common but is compatible with the KR808D-1 thread type.
(For a more detailed and expansive list of models please see: E-Cigarette Models. In addition to the model types, most General Merchants carry adapters to connect virtually any two thread types together.)
Pricing Your PV and Components
This is where many people are confused. How much is too much!? It depends on what you’re looking for.
- Batteries: Proprietary batteries generally cost around $15-$20 USD each. Li-ion and LiFePO batteries generally cost around $5-$7 USD each. Battery life will be discussed below. It is generally recommended to have at least three batteries (or six if you use two at a time). Not all Li-ions or LiFePO batteries have a button-top (such as what you see on a standard AA battery). Sometimes it is a flat-top. Be sure to ask your merchant which it is as some PVs are not designed for batteries with flat-tops.
- Atomizers should generally cost around $6-$8 USD each regardless of resistance. Atomizers should last 2-4 weeks each. Some have been reported to last for months.
- Cartomizers should generally cost $1.00 to $1.80 each and a pack of five should last about 2-4 weeks as well. Some cartomizers have also been reported to last in excess of a month's time.
- Juice should cost approximately $0.30 to $0.80 per milliliter. Juice merchants sell their juice in various bottle sizes (ranging from 3ml to 60ml and higher). The average vaper goes through approximately 30ml in two weeks.
Batteries!
Protected batteries protect people from what is commonly referred to as Catastrophic Battery Failure. There have been very few incidents, but there have been a few in the industry. It's a rarity and it only occurs from not respecting the battery. The most important, and really the only important, points to remember to avoid CBF:
- Never let them get warm or (worse) hot. If they are warm, get them cooled and stay away (just in case). If they haven't expelled smoke after two minutes, they should be just fine. Just keep them cooling until they are slightly under room temp.
- Never leave them running (or they will get warm/hot [see above]).
- Never submerge them. That's kind of obvious, though.
- Never disassemble or puncture them. Also pretty obvious.
If they aren't protected, they won't just smoke, they'll explode. Protected batteries can also explode, but the battery is fitted with countermeasures to avoid the catastrophic part. Oh, and keeping them cool is ideal, but keeping them too cold or frozen may build condensation inside them when they're brought out. Condensation could damage or destroy some of the countermeasures. But yeah, only buy protected batteries!
Good care of your batteries will do more than safeguard you and your things. Good care of your batteries will maintain a consistent life span for the batteries. The average life span of a battery depends largely on it's type (Li-ion, LiFePO, et cetera...) and it's size (such as the 14500, 16340, and 18650 to name a few). Consult the information from the merchant on how many charges you should expect to have. For example, a protected 14500 UltraFire brand battery rates at 900mAh and 3.6volts. It is estimated to be rechargeable for 600-800 times. That gives the battery an average life span of ~700 recharges. How often you have to recharge your batteries largely relates to how often you use them on any given charge.
A nifty bit of information here... the battery sizes (id est 14500) is a sort of code. It represents dimensions. A 14500 battery is 14mm x 50mm. That last "0" represents the fact that it is a cylindrical battery. The PCB and the wrapping though do add a bit more to the size of the overall battery, but the basic dimension is where it receives its name.
Battery Charging Safety
- When recharging your batteries, be sure the battery and charger are in a location where they will cause minimal damage should a problem occur.
- ALWAYS take them off of the charger AS SOON AS YOU NOTICE the light(s) turn green. Over-charging can cause problems. Do not charge them while you sleep for this reason.
- If you use two batteries at the same time in your PV, ALWAYS charge them at the same time together. The best way to do this, is to place them into the charger, and THEN connect the charger to the outlet. Remove them from the outlet before removing them from the charger to also ensure they have the same level of charge.
Advanced Information
Having fun yet? Yeah, I thought so. LOL Well, here’s some slightly more advanced information that is crucial to obtaining peak performance: why variable voltage is awesome. The advanced PV user wants to see roughly eight watts of energy going through their atomizer. The wattage is determined by the volts and amperes (amps).
The formula for finding your wattage is: VOLTS x AMPS = WATTS (by the way, VOLTS / OHMS = AMPS). Your battery is where you find your volts, and your atomizer/cartomizer is where you find your ohms, with a multimeter/ohm meter. Since it’s easier to find your ohms and volts than it is your amps, to make one simple equation with numbers you know you can find, you can combine these two equations together into this: VOLTS x VOLTS / OHMS = WATTS. I will illustrate how I offset my voltage to work with the ohms of the cartomizer and achieve the approximate eight watts. I measure the resistance of EVERY atomizer and cartomizer that I buy before I use it. If you don't have a multimeter go get a digital multimeter. They're around $20, but they're worth knowing what you're paying for in my opinion.
Let’s say my brand new cartomizer rates at 2.3Ω. I'll run the math out to go as close to eight watts as I can get. I always start with 3.7volts as 3.7v is a fairly common standard voltage rating for batteries:
3.7v * 3.7v / 2.3Ω = 5.95w
Not really what I want. So, I'll dial up the voltage to 4.0v and run the math again.
4v * 4v / 2.3Ω = 6.96w
Still not there, but getting closer. Let's try 4.5v.
4.5v * 4.5v / 2.3Ω = 8.80w
A little too high. Remember, I want to be as close to 8w as I can get. How about 4.3v?
4.3v * 4.3v / 2.3Ω = 8.04w
Hit the nail on the head! Time to fill it up, and start vaping!
Examples of Examples
This is intended to give a little more illustration on PV and merchant categories which was discussed above. These are only a few examples, so be sure to ask around for specific interests you may have.
E-Cigs & eGos
Volcano brand: http://www.volcanoecigs.com/v-kit-deluxe.html#
LeCig's PigCig: http://lecig.com/LCPCSK2B.aspx
Pipe Mods
GA-Tech's Jazz Cartopipe: http://www.jazzcartopipe.com/
E-Pipe Mod's Protopype: http://www.epipemods.com/protopype-d...-7v-pipes.html
Tube Mods
AltSmoke's Silver Bullet: http://altsmoke.com/starterkit/silve...verbullet.html
PureSmoker's Icon v1.1: http://www.puresmoker.com/product_p/icon.htm
Box Mods
Totally Twisted Texas E-liquid's VMU: https://www.ttteliquids.com/Shop/ind...d&productId=41
R&R Manufacturing's Ali'i: http://www.rnrmanufacturing.com/
Cigar Mods
GA Tech's NoEgo: http://www.jazzcartopipe.com/
E-Cigg's Mad Max: http://www.ecigg.org/ecigg-tank-p/ego%20tank.htm
Juice Merchants
Ozark Fresh: http://ozarkfresh.com/
Eliquid Planet: http://www.eliquidplanet.com/home.php
General Merchants
Vapor Junction: http://www.vaporjunction.com/store/i...ain_page=index
Mad Vapes: http://www.madvapes.com/
Specialty Merchants
Clouds of Vapor: http://www.cloudsofvapor.com/
Empire Mods: http://www.empiremods.com/Default.asp
Social Acceptance and Nicotine Safety
Personal vaporizers are fairly more common, but even still, these days, a PV can seem scary to onlookers. Many folks have no idea what a PV is exactly, or what it does, but many have heard about "electronic cigarettes" by now. There are numerous merchants in the community that will boast the legal gray area claim that you can use them virtually anywhere. Legally speaking, they are only half right. Businesses and consumers alike have the right to alienate something or someone that they see as a potential threat. Tobacco smoke has long since been an iconic doomsday cloud, to which all smokers have been stigmatized with producing. So, using your PV in a public place is likely to turn some heads. It's not exactly a bad thing, but be mindful of where you vape, when you vape, and who you are vaping around.
We as a community should be respectful and anticipatory of others' concerns. When it comes to vaping in a public place, such as a park, you should be fine. When it comes to vaping in a business, such as a bar, it is highly recommended that you speak with the business owner or manager prior to vaping. Explain to them what the PV does and what the byproduct is (vaporized propylene glycol and/or glycerine, and flavorings). If they are concerned about the byproducts, you should have your guns loaded with information to set them at ease. So, here are some key points that I have found most business owners/operators to find concerning (and this is honest information, there's no need to fib):
- Propylene Glycol and Glycerin are both pharmaceutical grade chemicals that are FDA approved for human consumption, and are used in such things as medicines, food products, and fog machines.
- The slight residual aroma that one may smell would be the flavorings in the juice, but this, along with PG/VG, dissipates into the air very rapidly.
- Should your juice contain nicotine, one important thing to know about liquid nicotine is that it is instantaneously absorbed through the skin and flesh; ergo, there is no nicotine in the exhaled clouds.
- YES! Your produced clouds can set off fire alarms! So, be very mindful of where you exhale your vapor!
Keep in mind that liquid nicotine is highly toxic in concentrated levels. That is one of the main purposes of using PG/VG to dilute the nicotine. This in mind, I highly recommend becoming familiar with nicotine poisoning (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Nicotine_poisoning). It can be extremely dangerous when it comes to adults, and lethal when it comes to children and pets. Always store your nicotine-laden liquids away from where a child or animal may reach them. Clean up any large messes with a disinfectant, such as Lysol, Clorox, or any other similar product designed for the surface(s) you are cleaning. Personally, I use the generic brand disinfectant wipes.
Also, when working with nicotine-laden juice, such as to refill a travel bottle or a tank, it is recommended that you wear plastic gloves. These can be found at general retail stores all over. Walmart sells bags of 30 count gloves for a couple dollars per bag. The gloves don't have to be latex, but similar gloves should be used when handling nicotine-laden juices. Remember, nicotine is instantaneously absorbed through the skin.
I know that this information on nicotine (not to mention the information on batteries) may be scary, but just as with someone who generally uses firearms, it takes a responsible person to operate and maintain it safely. Be mindful of where your supplies are and how secure they are. Be mindful of where your batteries are and how warm they may feel. Being vigilant about these things, along with being respectful of others in your vicinity, will not only allow you to vape with confidence, but it will maintain a good public relation between the PV Community and the rest of the world. We all want PVs to stay. We all want to vape! Most importantly, we all want to coexist, and keeping the public eye on us in a positive light will do much to ensure we can all continue vaping happily.
2015年9月28日星期一
2015年9月22日星期二
2015年9月8日星期二
2015年9月6日星期日
Lostvape E Fusion DAN200W TC BOX MOD/ Evolv DAN200W TC board
200W Temperature Control Box MOD - E-Fusion
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emperature Limit: 200°F - 600°F
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With Evolv's Escribe software, dial in your perfect vape with over 93 options
1300mAh 3 cell lipo battery, TRUE 200watts max power output!
User serviceable FullyMax 1300mAh 14.4watt hour 11.1V 3 cell lithium polymer battery
emperature Limit: 200°F - 600°F
Output Power: 1Watt - 200Watts
Dimensions: 85mm*60mm*25mm
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ECIG SHOWING STANDS/ ECIG Display Stand
ECIG SHOWING STANDS
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Different types stands are made for atomizer, ecig, box mod, bottle liquids.
Web/Facebook/Twitter/Email/Skype
http://www.ecigarden.com
http://facebook.com/egoecigarden
http://twitter.com/ecigarden
Email: info@ecigarden
Skype: ecigarden
200W TC Box MOD/ Lostvape E Fusion Box mod/ Evolv DNA200 Temperature Control board
200W Temperature Control Box MOD - E-Fusion
Powered by Evolv DNA200 temperature protection board
With Evolv's Escribe software, dial in your perfect vape with over 93 options
1300mAh 3 cell lipo battery, TRUE 200watts max power output!
User serviceable FullyMax 1300mAh 14.4watt hour 11.1V 3 cell lithium polymer battery
emperature Limit: 200°F - 600°F
Output Power: 1Watt - 200Watts
Dimensions: 85mm*60mm*25mm
With Evolv's Escribe software, dial in your perfect vape with over 93 options
1300mAh 3 cell lipo battery, TRUE 200watts max power output!
User serviceable FullyMax 1300mAh 14.4watt hour 11.1V 3 cell lithium polymer battery
emperature Limit: 200°F - 600°F
Output Power: 1Watt - 200Watts
Dimensions: 85mm*60mm*25mm
More info pls check our facebook page: http://facebook.com/egoecigarden
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